Frantzén

Den första stjärnkrogen, och hittills enda, att duka under för coronakrisen var Sav i Tygelsjö utanför Malmö. Redan i januari började de märka av färre utländska gäster och när sedan viruset tog fart i Sverige gick det fort. På några dagar avbokades 90 procent av platserna och konkursen var ett faktum.

Att det finns lediga bord en fredag och lördag på populära ställen som Aloë och Gastrologik visar att många har stora problem.

 

Hur illa läget är för Frantzén är inte helt lätt att bedöma. Dels kanske delägaren Antonia Ax:son Johnson är villig att ställa upp med en djup krigskassa, dels har Sveriges enda trestjärniga restaurang en sällsynt stark dragningskraft.

När MK gör ett kvällsbesök en torsdag i slutet av mars finns inga lediga platser och april ser tämligen fullbokad ut. Dock har restaurangen parerat ett visst bokningstapp genom att inte köra lunchservering onsdagar och torsdagar.

 

Efter en några olika munsbitar serveras Crudo: lagrad hiramasa, saltade gula plommon & shiso. En stabil start.
 
 
Havskräfta, krispigt ris (koshihikari), emulsion av galangal & matsutake. Denna har hängt med ett tag nu och med all rätt. Galet gott.

 

Nästa rätt är en japansk äggkräm som inte fastnade på bild: Chawanmushi, blomkål, grillad havsöra, ingefärsolja & buljong på lagrad gris. Havsöra är en ny bekantskap. Konsistensen är som en småseg bläckfisk, men snäckdjuret har en intressant förmåga att öka i smak ju mer man tuggar. Smaken är behaglig och lite smörig.
 
Piggvar, fermenterad sparris, groddade valnötter & Frantzén ”prestige” kaviar.

 

Kungskrabba, sjöborre XO, palmhjärta, fingerlime, granskott & krysantemum. En otroligt god rätt där den sjöborredopade XO-såsen och de små ”citruskaviarkornen” av fingerlimen är pricken över i:et.
 
Under tillverkning: French toast ”grand tradition 2008”, tryffel, ”vacche rosse” & vinäger lagrad på enbärsfat. Den 100-åriga vinägern som användes tidigare är utbytt mot en blott 20-årig variant. Personalen upplyser om att det har hänt att gäst tagit upp en tryffel och käkat den som ett äpple och att så får man inte göra.

 

Lök, lakrits & mandel… Löksoppan är som vanligt menyns kung. Skulle Restaurant Frantzén tvingas konka pga coronahelvetet har Björn Frantzén sitt på det torra om han startar en soppvagn. Denna gudasav bör kunna krängas för åtminstone en tusing litern.
 
Dilamm, ramslök, ”souce vierge” & färserade murklor.
 
Karamelliserad morot, pistage, fem sorters te & frasvåfflor. Vem kunde ana att morotsglass kunde vara så gott? Hela den tredelade triumf är sinnesjukt god. Bästa desserten någonsin. Totalt trolleri.
 
Utanför den skrivna menyn kommer en släng läckert lingonmums, med något som bör vara viol.
 
MK-ordförande Granvik och det sötdyrkande MK-fanet Lindh sänker var sitt godistorn.
 
Inte mindre än 4 fat – alltså 36 madeleinekakor – slinker också ned.
 
På vägen ut tittar de båda sig i spegeln och möts av denna syn.
 
 
Lysande vinpaket.
 
 

 

 

 

 


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